Prime cuts: Santa Cruz's Hindquarter is a meat eater's haven

from the Santa Cruz Sentinel's Spotlight,
Good taste by Janet Blaser

Not all that's endured in Santa Cruz since the '60s has remnants of tie-dye and tofu, you know.

The Hindquarter Bar and Grille, a fixture on the restaurant scene since it was called "The Boondocks," has steadily held its own - and then some. Combining the fresh produce and seafood of the area with prime aged beef and cooking techniques perfected by years of experience, owner Bob Cornell has held onto his winning hand since he took the helm about eight years ago.

Never one to mince words, the restaurant's new motto is "where the elite meat" - an apt nomenclature, I believe, as the Hindquarter is most known for its extensive selection of meats. Top sirloin, filet mignon, pepper steak and babyback ribs are featured on the menu, along with free-range chicken prepared in a variety of ways and a good selection of pasta, seafood and burgers.

A new facade and logo have called attention here, reminding locals and visitors that if you're looking for a substantial, hearty meal, this is a good place to go. The interior of the restaurant is cozy in a rustic way, with warm, wood paneling, three separate dining rooms, and a full bar with a fireplace in the corner between the two entrances. Choose from booths or tables; a banquet room can also be reserved for that special occasion or party.

Cornell, who spent 15 years as head chef at the Miramar on the Santa Cruz Wharf, said he changed the menu dramatically when he took over. From a very basic steak-and-salad-bar type of place, the Hindquarter has evolved into a full-fledged dinner house, with a popular bar that's quite a scene during Monday Night Football and on weekends. Cornell wanted to expand the menu offerings to have a more broad appeal to a variety of palates and pocketbooks, so that everyone would feed comfortable and welcome.

"Our prime thing is quality," he said. "We order the best stuff available, from free-range chickens to the finest aged prime rib to lots of local organic produce. We don't cut corners anywhere."

Even little details don't escape his attention. The butter is real, as is the sour cream. No substitutes here. Don't you hate it when you order a baked potato and it comes with dollops of stuff that looks like the real thing but isn't? I think those lo-fat substitutes should be on request only, not served automatically.

But anyway, you won't have to worry about that here. You'll find huge menus, with lots of full-meal salads, burgers and sandwiches for lunch, and even more choices for dinner. Chef James Bocast, formerly of Cafe Sparrow, keeps the specials board full of innovative creations, using lots of fresh seafood that isn't regularly offered.

Although it doesn't happen often, the staff is happy to whip up a pasta primavera, veggie plate or stuffed baked potato for vegetarians that may come in. And a children's menu that doubles as a coloring book has half-dozen offering for $4.95 to $6.95.

With so many meals behind him, I wondered what still keeps Cornell's taste buds tingling.

"I'd have to say the pepper steak ($18.99) is one of my favorite things," said Cornell. "The pan juices are finished with Jack Daniels and it's just a very flavorful, mouthwatering type of steak."

Perhaps the most popular item through the years are the babyback ribs, slow-cooked and hickory smoked. Nine times out of 10, he said, when people sit down and don't need a menu, it's the ribs they're ordering.

"The ribs are the real thing," said Cornell proudly. "Our honey-peach glaze is unique - it's a guarded recipe. Most everybody else does barbecue sauce, or variations, but this is a whole different thing that accents the ribs very nicely."

Good Taste is written by staff writer Janet Blaser and appears in Spotlight three times a month.

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