'Where the Elite Meat'
A dining treat at the Hindquarter Bar and Grille
from the Good Times,
by Jackie Ganly

Even though I've passed the Hindquarter Bar and Grille on Soquel Avenue many times, I have never eaten there. I was a little put off by the severe exterior but last Friday evening, I put my doubts aside and decided to visit this local steakhouse whose slogan is, "Where the elite meat."

The restaurant's interior décor is a mixture of rustic charm and modern touches. The beamed ceiling and comfortable booths lend a western feel, yet the abstracts on the walls are distinctly modern. The employees were all friendly and the service impeccable. Our water glasses were constantly checked, our coffee cups perpetually filled. Our personal server, Louis Meyers, went out of his way to make sure we were satisfied and happy. At one point, my companion had to change his order because of a problem with the Prime Rib. Louis was full of apologies and offered his own suggestion as a substitute. This type of service is rare these days.

Even though it was a busy night, we were barely seated when Louis greeted us warmly and offered to take our drink orders. A complimentary basket of unusual types of bread was served. My companion particularly liked the hearty Rye Bread.

We decided to begin our meal with two appetizers, Black and Blue Ahi ($10.99) and Buffalo Wings ($6.50). The Ani tuna was great. Thin slices of fish were seasoned and seared on the outside, left raw on the inside. The Ahi was presented on a bed of fresh lettuce with wasabi and soy dipping sauces on the side. Superb! The Buffalo Wings were slightly spicy and a touch tangy, served with ranch dressing. They were hot and filling.

I chose the house specialty, Jack's Pepper Steak ($19.99). I was served an incredibly tender, boneless rib-eye steak, medium-rare, seared with peppercorns and glazed with pan juices. This was perhaps the best steak I've had locally. Every bite oozed with natural juices and flavor. Wonderful garlic mashed potatoes accompanied my meal. The potatoes were mashed with the skins on and were mouth-watering.

My companion ordered Prime Coulette Steak "Chimichurra" ($18.99). This steak was sliced into thin strips and topped with a unique cilantro, jalapeño, garlic and olive oil marinade. Although not as tender as the rib-eye, this steak has a beefy charbroiled flavor that set the sauce off to perfection.

The entrees were wonderful, but I felt, for the price, that soup or salad should have been included.

We completed our meal with a smooth, rich and utterly delicious Crème Brulée ($4.99). The sweet, creamy custard was perfectly protected by a crunch carmelized crust that added texture to the dessert.

In addition to its regular menu, the Hindquarter offers nightly specials. Sunday's special is Virginia Applewood Smoked Pork Chops ($10); Monday's special is the famous all-you-can-eat BBQ Beef Ribs ($10.99); Tuesday offers Rack Chicago Baby Backs with a one-quarter Smoked Free-Range Chicken ($10.99); Wednesday's offering is Alderwood Smoked Prime Rib ($13.99); and Thursday is once again Chicago Rib night, with a full rack going for $12.99, the half rack $8.99. All ribs, chicken and chops are smoked on the premises.

The Hindquarter offers a vegetarian and low-fat menu upon request. There are also light entrees on the regular menu, such as Steak Salad ($13.99) and Grilled Chicken Salad ($12.99).

The Hindquarter is the perfect place to go when the craving for good old-fashioned red meat hits, and a yearning for good service returns.

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303 Soquel Avenue • Santa Cruz • 831-426-7770